We had just returned from the Falkland Islands and were on a penguin high when our friend, Ted Cheeseman, wrote to ask if we were interested in joining him for another Cheesemans’ adventure to Antarctica. Even though we had plans to be in Central America at that time, we frantically reshuffled our itinerary after deciding that we could make it work. Looking back on it now, we are so grateful to Ted for reaching out and letting us know of this amazing opportunity. Antarctica remains one of our favorite places on the planet, and who better to see it with than the incredible Cheesemans’ Ecology Safaris team? This Antarctic adventure was on board the Akademik Ioffe, a Russian research ship that could comfortably accommodate 100 passengers plus staff and crew. The focus of the trip was whales, penguins and landscapes (not necessarily in that order) and our adventure was phenomenal. Every day was different and Ted certainly kept us on our toes. One day we would be hiking to admire the gorgeous landscapes, and then on another day we’d have hours of zodiac cruising opportunities (perfect for spotting the varied wildlife). Unforgettable highlights would certainly include humpback whales spy hopping to check us out, getting checked out by curious leopard seals, befriending gentoo chicks, zodiac cruising around the most gorgeous iceberg scenery, getting super lucky with gorgeous Antarctic weather, close encounters during a humpback whale feeding frenzy, and voluntarily jumping into the ocean at the Antarctic Circle! This was a magical trip and a huge thanks to the amazing Cheesemans’ staff for making it all possible. We can’t wait to travel with many of you again one day.

Itinerary

17 Feb: Arrive to Punta Arenas, Chile
18 Feb: Fly to King George Island and board the Akademik Ioffe
19 Feb: Hannah Point and Whalers Bay
20 Feb: Mikkelsen Harbor, D’Hainaut Island and Cierva Cove
21 Feb: Wilhelmina Bay and Cuverville Island
22 Feb: Lemaire Channel, Port Lockroy and Jougla Point
23 Feb: Crossing the Antarctic Circle
24 Feb: Brown Station in Paradise Harbour
25 Feb: Charlotte Bay and Foyn Harbour
26 Feb: Fournier Bay and Danco Island
27 Feb: Yalour Island
28 Feb: Peterman Island
1 Mar: Robert Point
2 Mar: Crossing the Drake Passage
3 Mar: Crossing the Drake Passage
4 Mar: Arrival to Ushuaia

Daily Schedule

Tuesday, 19 February 2019: Hannah Point and Whalers Bay

Whalers Bay – what a great place to start! This is a small protected harbor located on the southeast end of Deception Island. It has many historical remains from past expeditions to Antarctica and to the South Shetland Islands. The area has beautiful landscapes, a geo-thermally heated lagoon, and a great variety of wildlife. Kelp gulls, Wilson’s storm petrels, skuas and Antarctic terns all breed in this bay. In addition, both gentoo and chinstrap penguins occupy the beach where we might also find a loafing Antarctic fur seal or weddell seal.

Over lunch, we will travel out through Neptune’s bellows north to Livingston Island to Hannah Point. This extremely special location has the greatest diversity of wildlife anywhere on the Antarctic Peninsula. So much so that all tour operators have agreed to keep this site closed each season until mid-January when breeding birds are past their most sensitive stages. Our shore briefing will orient you but of particular note, we will specify that you must not approach nesting Southern Giant Petrel and Kelp Gulls, as they may still have sensitive younger chicks. Also of note at Hannah Point, you can see the entire species list of Antarctic flowering plants, all two species. Our guides will point out to you the pearlwort and Deschampsia antarctica grass. During the landing, Hugh Rose will lead a geology walk from the red jaspar rock site at the top of the landing to the location where fossils of the Antarctic Beech can sometimes be found – timing will be announced with your landing briefing. Hannah Point is a site with a little of everything, a wonderful place for our first full day of landings, weather permitting.

6:00 am: Wake up call
6:15 am: Transit Neptune’s Bellows
6:30 am: Breakfast
08:00 am: Mandatory zodiac briefing
09:00 am: First zodiac to shore at Telefon Bay
11:30 am: Last zodiac back to ship
1:00 pm: Lunch
3:30 pm: First zodiac to shore at Hannah Point
5:00 pm: First zodiac back to ship
7:30 pm: Last zodiac back to the ship, and depart for icy parts further south across the Branfield Strait
8:00 pm: Dinner
9:00 pm: In the bar: Citizen Science in Antarctica with Allison Lee: how to be a part of Antarctic science on this voyage

Wednesday, 20 February 2019: Mikkelsen Harbor, D’Hainaut Island and Cierva Cove

D’Hainaut Island is a small, flat island located within Trinity Island’s Mikkelsen Harbor. It is typically ice covered until late into the summer season. This island is home to gentoo penguins, snowy sheathbills, skuas, kelp gulls, Antarctic terns, weddell seals, and Antarctic fur seals. You can also find remnants from the ages of whaling, including a large pile of whalebones and a whaler’s water boat on the northeast shore of the island. Afterwards, we will navigate up the Gerlache Strait to Cierva Cove, on the lookout for cetaceans, particularly humpbacks and killer whales, which may divert our plans. Cierva Cove, wll, this is one of our favorite spots on the planet for zodiac cruising. We will let the place speak for itself for all the wonders it has on offer.

6:30 am: Wake up call
7:00 am: Breakfast
8:30 am: First zodiacs from ship to land at Mikkelsen Harbor
11:00 am: All zodiacs back to ship
12:30 pm: Lunch
2:00 pm: First zodiac from ship, cruising in Cierva Cove, a glorious site where we hope to find abundant wildlife, ice, and beautiful cruising among icebergs.
7:00 pm: Last zodiac to ship
8:00 pm: Dinner

Thursday, 21 February 2019: Wilhelmina Bay and Cuverville Island

Wilhelmina Bay is a 15-mile bay located between the Reclus Peninsula and Cape Anna. These expansive waters are surrounded by impressive landscapes of sheer ice cliffs and glaciated sculptures. In addition, this bay is often referred to as “Whale-hilmina Bay” due to a high potential for humpback whales. After lunch, we will make our way sixteen miles south to Cuverville Island. This rocky island is located in the northern Errera Channel and is surrounded by vertical cliffs except for its northern shore. BirdLife International has declared this site as an Important Bird Area as it is home to large numbers of breeding gentoo penguins, southern giant petrel, Antarctic tern, blue-eyed shag, snowy sheathbill, kelp gull, Wilson’s storm petrel, snow petrel, pintado petrel, and skuas.

6:30 am: Wake up call
6:45 am: Smoothies in the bar
7:00 am: Breakfast
8:00 am: Begin zodiac cruising in Wilhelmina. We hope for mega whales! Zodiacs will endeavor to pass by the ship after about two to three hours, so anyone who wishes can get off.
12:00 pm: Last zodiacs back for lunch
12:30 pm: Lunch
2:30 pm: First zodiac to shore at Cuverville Island. Cuverville boasts the largest recorded Gentoo penguin colony on the peninsula, 3500+ breeding pairs, plus nesting Antarctic shags and terns. Possibility for zodiac cruising as an option, and general Antarctic goodness.
7:00 pm: Last zodiac back to the ship
7:30 pm: Dinner

Friday, 22 February 2019: Orne Harbour and Port Lockroy

We hope to make the best of the tremendous conditions we are enjoying by staying in the central Gerlache vicinity. We will land this morning in Orne Harbour, site of a chinstrap penguin colony and a short hike up slope for a stunning view into the Gerlache Strait. Fur seals are likely, and landscapes are awesome. In the afternoon, we will land at two sites in lovely Port Lockroy. Formerly “Base A” of the secret WWII British mission “Operation Tabarin”, the station was built in 1944 to report on (nonexistent) German activities and provided weather reports. From the end of the war until abandonment in 1962, Lockroy became an important site for ionospheric science and other research. The base was restored by the Antarctic Heritage Trust into an excellent museum, and now houses a post office and gift shop. Gentoo penguins surround the site, and would happily nest inside if allowed.

6:30 am: Wake up call
7:00 am: Breakfast
8:00 am: First zodiac out to Orne Harbour
11:00 am: Last zodiac back to ship
12:00 pm: Lunch
2:30 pm: Landing at Port Lockroy base and Jougla point, splitting the group between the two sites
6:30 pm: Last zodiac back to ship
7:00 pm: Dinner

Saturday, 23 February 2019: Fish Islands and the Antarctic Circle

Today we go SOUTH! We will aim for the Antarctic Circle, navigating south to the limit on this planet that is so far south that on the winter solstice, the sun never rises, and on the summer solstice, the sun never sets. On the way, however, we hope to rendezvous with a new species of penguin. The Fish Islands are a collection of small islands in the northern parts of Holtedahl Bay. These and their neighboring Minnow islands are home to an estimated four thousand pairs of breeding pairs of Adelie penguins. Conditions permitting, we may land and zodiac cruise, precise plans to be announced as they develop.

7:30 am: Wake up call
8:00 am: Breakfast
10:00 am: “Introduction to seals of the Antarctic Peninsula” with Merel in the Dining Room and “Fat and Wet: A brief introduction to humpbacks and one or two other whales” with Phil in the Lecture Room. Lectures will be repeated in the afternoon: starboard side goes to the seal lecture first, port side goes to whale lecture first.
12:00 pm: Lunch
1:00 pm: First zodiac to shore at Fish Island
3:30 pm: Last zodiac back to the ship
5:00 pm: Repeat of morning lectures, port side cabins: Seals with Merel, starboard side cabins with Phil in the Lecture Room
7:00 pm: Dinner

Sunday, 24 February 2019: Brown Station in Paradise Harbour

We are sailing north, making good time, so we will use the time saved to get to a genuine destination of choice: Paradise Harbour. Here we will make our long-awaited continental landing at the Argentine Base Brown, named after William Brown, father of the Argentine Navy. The station may welcome us to visit; we will brief you on visit protocol. Also, here is a hill to a gorgeous view, nesting Gentoo penguins, and potential for beautiful and whaley zodiac cruising. The name Paradise…is well earned.

7:30 am: Wakeup call
8:00 am: Breakfast
10:00 am: Repeat of lectures given yesterday afternoon: Allison Lee with Oceans and Life Below in the dining room, and Yulia in the lecture room with Too Much is Never Enough: Illegal Russian Whaling
12:30 pm: Lunch
2:00 pm: First zodiac to shore at Brown Station, Paradise Harbour
7:30 pm: Last zodiac back to ship
8:00 pm: Dinner

Monday, 25 February 2019: Charlotte Bay and Foyn Harbour

Do you love zodiac cruising yet? We hope so! We’ll have lots of time in boats today, first in beautiful Charlotte Bay, then in lovely Foyn Harbour. As you have seen, serendipity brings great things to the zodiac cruisers who endure. We start in Charlotte Bay indenting the west coast of Graham Land in a southeast direction for 12 nautical miles (22 km), between Reclus Peninsula and Cape Murray just north of Wilhelmina Bay. Its head is fed by the glaciers Nobile, Bozhinov, Krebs, Wellman and Renard. The bay was discovered by Adrien de Gerlache during the 1897 – 99 Belgian Antarctic Expedition and named after Charlotte Dumeiz, the fiancee of Georges Lecointe, Gerlache’s executive officer, hydrographer and second-in-command of the expedition.

Foyn Harbour is an anchorage between Nansen Island and Enterprise Island in Wilhelmina Bay, off the west coast of Graham Land. It was surveyed by M.C. Lester and T.W. Bagshawe in 1921-22, and was named by whalers in the area after the whaling factory Svend Foyn, which was moored here during 1921-22. A standout and very photogenic element in Foyn, besides the whales and the non-stop ridiculous scenery is the wreck of the whaling factory ship Guvernoren.

6:00 am: Wake up call
6:30 am: Breakfast
7:30 am: First zodiac cruising Charlotte Bay
11:30 am: Last zodiac back to ship
12:30 pm: Lunch
2:30 pm: First zodiac cruising Foyn Harbour
7:00 pm Last zodiac back to ship
7:30 pm: Dinner

Tuesday, 26 February 2019: Fournier Bay and Danco Island

In the morning, we will zodiac cruise in Fournier Bay. This eight nautical mile long fjord offers great opportunities to see icebergs, seals, beautiful scenery, and majestic glaciers that feed into the bay. There is also a strong possibility of encountering humpback and minke whales.

Danco is home to approximately 3000 pairs of Gentoo Penguins, and boasts a bit of ice free earth on the north slope that an offer us a chance to stretch our legs and possibly hike a bit if wildlife does not block our path. A clear day will offer glorious views of the nearby Ronge Island and Danco Coast of the Antarctic Peninsula.

6:00 am: Wake up call
6:30 am: Breakfast
7:30 am: First zodiac to cruise Fournier Bay
9:30 am: If you do not wish to get up early, join us for cruise starting at 9:30 am
11:00 am: Last zodiac back to ship
12:30 pm: Lunch and repositioning to Danco Island
3:00 pm: First zodiac to Danco Island
7:00 pm Last zodiac back to ship
7:30 pm: Dinner

Wednesday, 27 February 2019: Neko Harbour and Waterboat Point

Neko Harbor is one of the most scenic landings along the Gerlache Strait, a beautiful protected anchorage located at the southeast end of Andvord Bay and south of the Laussedat Heights on the Antarctic Peninsula. This anchorage was named “Neko” for a factory whaling ship that used this bay while operating in the South Shetlands and Antarctic Peninsula in 1911-1912 and 1923-1924. The harbor was charted by Gerlache’s Belgian Antarctic expedition, 1897-1899. About 1000 pairs of breeding gentoo penguins nest here, and an option may be available to hike up to a beautiful view of the bay looking down on the Deville Glacier. The zodiac cruising in Andvord Bay outside Neko Harbor is fantastic, with potential for seals, humpbacks and minkes, and beautiful ice. All zodiac cruising will operate from shore.

Note: Neko is exposed to potentially dangerous glacial calving tsunamis; the beach is to be transited only, with no staying within the tsunami zone.

After lunch, we will reposition to the passage between Andvord Bay and Paradise Harbour for a landing and cruising at Waterboat Point, site of the (currently closed) Chilean station Gonzales Videla.

6:30 am: Wake up call
7:00 am: Breakfast
8:00 am: First zodiac to shore at Neko Harbour
1:00 pm: Last zodiac back to ship
1:30 pm: Lunch and repositioning to Waterboat Point
3:00 pm: First zodiac to shore at Waterboat Point
7:00 pm Last zodiac back to ship
7:30 pm: Dinner

Thursday, 28 February 2019: Petermann Island

Petermann has Adelies, one of the world’s southernmost Gentoo colonies, and many other nesting birds including Antarctic shags and Snowy sheathbill. We have seen a big change here since our first visit in 1992 when the first Gentoos started showing up. Now very few Adelies remain, but large numbers of Gentoos are doing very well. In addition to the wonderful Genttoo colony at the landing site, there is a skua “club”. Take special care to avoid stepping on any moss. Part of this area is closed to visitors; please respect the directions of staff ashore.

In the afternoon, we must point our bow north, first back through the Lemaire Channel (for the third time) then traversing the Gerlache Strait for one last glorious passage. Do enjoy this Antarctic glory before we leave this all astern.

6:00 am: Wake up call
6:30 am: Breakfast
7:30 am: First zodiac to shore at Petermann Island
11:30 am: Last zodiac back to ship from Petermann Island
~12:30 pm: Beginning of south to north transit of the Lemare Channel
1:00 pm: Lunch
2:45 pm: Lectures: Phil will finish History of Marine Mammal Science in the lecture room, Ted will finish HappyWhale: What 3000 wildlife photographers are doing for whale science.
3:45 pm: Lectures: Phill will repeat History of Marine Mammal Science in the lecture room for starboard cabin inhabitants, Fred Sharpe will present The Intelligence of the Humpback Whale for port side cabin inhabitants.
4:30 pm: Tea time! 5:00 pm: Lectures: Fred will repeat The Intelligence of the Humpback Whale for starboard cabin inhabitants, Joe Kaplan will present Seabirds of Antarctica for the port side cabin inhabitants.
7:30 pm: Dinner

Friday, 1 March 2019: Frei Station, King George Island and Robert Point

7:30 am: Wake up call
8:00 am: Breakfast
9:30 am: Lectures: Joe Kaplan: Seasbirds of Antarctica for starboard cabins in the lecture room, Merel Dalebout: Climate Change. Part 1. Is it really happening? Is it us? – for port side cabins in the dining room.
12:00 pm: Arrival to Frei Station, King George Island
12:30 pm: Lunch
~3:30 pm: Estimated zodiac departure to Robert Point, Robert Island, South Shetland Island
7:00 pm: Last zodiac from Robert Point
7:30 pm: Dinner

It is time to act on a few great end of voyage activities: (1) images for photo critiques, (2) images for the group slideshow and voyage log, and (3) photo ID images. This morning, expedition staff will be in the media room to collect images. For photo critique, submit two images maximum, images for which you’d like to hear constructive critique from our photo staff. For the voyage log, maximum five nature images and as many people pictures as you’d like. Nature images will be shown on the last night in a group slideshow with your name attached, while people pictures will be shown all together. For photo ID, we’re interested in humpback flukes, Weddell seal undersides, killer whale images (saddle/dorsals or whole back), and leopard seals (left side of face). All the above can be submitted now or after the voyage (if after the voyage, to Happywhale.com/submit, or direct to ted@happywhale.com). Ideally, please include the image date and your name in the filename.

Saturday, 2 March 2019: Drake Passage

7:30 am: Wake up call
8:00 am: Breakfast
9:30 am: Lectures: Merel: Climate Change, Part 1. Is it really happening? Is it us? – in the dining room for starboard cabins, and Allison: Conservation and Governance – in the lecture room, for port cabins
10:30 am: Lectures: Yulia: Life aboard for Soviet whalers – in the dining room, for port cabins. And Allison: Antarctic Conservation and Governance – in the lecture room, for starboard cabins
11:30 am: Guest lecture in the lecture roomm: Clark Snodgrass, former director of Science and Weather Systems for Northrup Grummend Aerospace: Monitoring the Earth’s Environment from Space (open for all)
12:30 pm: Lunch
2:30 pm: Lectures: Yulia: Life aboard for Soviet whalers – in the dining room, for starboard cabins, and Chas: Photography – Comprehensive Wildlife for port cabins.
3:45 pm: Lectures: Merel Dalebout: Climate Change, Part II. What’s happening in Antarctica? – for starboard cabins in the dining room. TBA for port cabins in the lecture room.
7:00 pm: Deadline for photo delivery in the media room!
7:30 pm: Dinner

Sunday, 3 March 2019: Drake Passage

7:30 am: Wake up call
8:00 am: Breakfast
9:30 am: Lectures: Merel: In for the Krill – in the dining room for starboard cabins, and Hugh: A Wild Promise: Prince William Sound – Life at the same latitude north as we are south – in the lecture room, for port cabins
10:30 am: Lectures: Merel: : In for the Krill – in the dining room for port cabins, and Hugh: A Wild Promise: Prince William Sound – Life at the same latitude north as we are south – in the lecture room, for starboard cabins
11:30 am: Ship tours
12:30 pm: Lunch
1:30 pm: Account settlement
3:00 pm: A view of the world through the eyes of Cheesemans’ Ecology Safaris travels, with Scott and Ted, followed by the Photo Critique, in the lecture room
4:30 pm: Tea time!
~5:00 pm: Auction, in the dining room
7:30 pm: Captain’s Dinner – bring out your fanciest duds
9:30 pm: Group slideshow, in the lecture room

Monday, 4 March 2019: Disembarkation in Ushuaia, Argentina

6:30 am: Wake up call
7:00 am: Breakfast
8:00 am: Anticipated disembarkation time, depending on Argentine customs clearance

By breakfast time, please have your checked luggage ready for transfer to the dock, labeled with the appropriate ribbon color to help segregate luggage on the dock between four groups, corresponding to respective buses. Keep your carry-on luggage in your cabin (anything that is too delicate to transport by crane in cargo nets).

Upon customs clearance, we will return your passport to you at the bar (and grab a trip USB), at which point you are free to disembark. Check your cabin carefully before you leave for the last time! On the dock, you are in a working zone; please take care and keep out of traffic lanes. You must identify your bags on the dock so that Ushuaia stevedores can load your bags into your correct bus.

Group 1 and 2 (buses 1 and 2) will go to respective hotels in Ushuaia, Los Acebos (pink ribbon) and Las Lengas (silver ribbon). It is unlikely that rooms will be available for check in, so luggage should be able to be stored until rooms are available.

Group 3 (bus 3 – green ribbon) for the 12pm Buenos Aires flight will carry you off the dock then sit at the head of the dock with your luggage until 10 am, so that you have time to roam downtown Ushuaia. Please return to the bus before 10 am for transfer to the airport.

Group 4 (multiple vehicles – gold ribbon) for transfer to separate bookings and later flights will either be (1) met by a transfer agent for specific logistics, (2) taken to your respective hotels, or (3), for those with later flights, taken to the office of our local agent, Rumbo Sur, where your bags can be stored until the time of your airport transfer.

If you wish to arrange a separate transfer, a taxi to the airport will cost approximately $10, and drivers accept US$.

Wishing you glorious Antarctic memories, smooth onward travels, and many happy returns.