Our first visit to Nepal was in 2004 and we wanted to revisit it to see how much had changed in 20 years. This time, we were accompanied by some of Becky’s Vietnamese relatives so it was an adventure for the 5 of us. Our bespoke itinerary coincided with Dashain which is Nepal’s biggest festival. Luckily, none of the tourist venues were impacted by the 15 day festival and we were able to do everything we wanted. Nepal offers visas on arrival so there was no stress about obtaining one in advance. Our trip started off in Kathmandu where we had coordinated a full day tour to include the Pashupatinath Temple, Boudhanāth Stupa, Swayambhunath Monkey Temple and Patan Durbar square (one of three Durbar squares in Kathmandu Valley). After leaving Kathmandu, we visited the 143 foot tall Kailashnath Mahadev Statue (one of the tallest Shiva statues in the world), Namobuddha Buddhist monastery and temple, Bakhtapur Durbar Square and the colorful Changu Narayan Temple before staying at the hillside town of Nagarkot. Under optimal conditions, we would have had Mount Everest views but unfortunately it was too hazy. From here, we drove to the cute town of Bandipur, a hidden gem with cobblestone streets and perfectly preserved historic houses. Then it was onward to Pokhara where we stayed near Phewa Lake. The weather didn’t cooperate with us but we still managed to enjoy an afternoon aarti ceremony, full body massages (Malama Spa is the best), and a full day of sightseeing to include Devi’s Fall, Gupteswar Cave, Pumdikot Shiva Statue, Pokhara World Peace Pagoda and Sarangkot Tower. Pokhara was as fun as we remembered it to be over 20 years ago with good food, good vibes and friendly locals so after three nights here, it was difficult to tear ourselves away but we still had Chitwan National Park to visit. In Chitwan we enjoyed seeing a traditional Tharu dance performance and organized a full day jeep safari tour. Our private guide was great and we saw two species of monkeys (Nepal Gray langur and a macaque), two different species of deer (sambar and chital), three rhinos, gharial crocodiles, and lots of bird life. Then it was back to Kathmandu to enjoy the Thamel District for one more night before our departure flight. Nepal enthralled us just as much as our first trip did decades ago and we would love to return here again. Our next trip would most likely be a trekking trip to Everest base camp.
The Himalayas above the clouds
Marionette dolls of a Hindu god for sale at the Pashupatinath Temple
Pashupatinath Temple structures along the Bagmati river bank
The Pashupatinath Temple, considered one of the holiest pilgrimage sites for Hindus, consists of 518 mini temples and one main pagoda house
Lord Shiva temples at the Pashupatinath Temple complex
Carved detail on an archway at the Pashupatinath Temple
A Sadhu (Hindu holy man) sitting at the Pashupatinath Temple
A temple dedicated to Lord Shiva on a hill above the Pashupatinath Temple complex
Statue of holy Gorakhnath near Pashupatinath Temple
Guheshwori Seto Sattal (white stupas next to the Guhyeshwari Shaktipeeth Temple)
A sadhu at the Pashupatinath Temple
One final view of Pashupatinath Temple. Non Hindus are not allowed to enter the main temple complex but can view it from the other side of the Bagmati River
Pitri Paksha rites being performed on the banks of the Bagmati River
Boudhanāth Stupa (Boudha Stupa) is the largest spherical stupa in Nepal and one of the largest in the world
Balcony of a building in front of the Boudhanāth Stupa in Kathmandu, Nepal
Smaller stupa at the base of Boudha Stupa
Prayer flags on the Boudhanāth Stupa
Flowers at the base of Boudhanāth Stupa
Prayer wheel at Boudhanāth Stupa
Rooftop view of Boudhanāth Stupa
Kids holding up balloons at the Boudhanāth Stupa
Prayer wheels at Swayambhunath Monkey Temple
View of Kathmandu from Swayambhunath Monkey Temple
Carved shrine at Swayambhunath Monkey Temple
Prayer flags at Swayambhunath Monkey Temple
Hindu visitors at the Swayambhunath Monkey Temple
Chaityas courtyard at Swayambhunath Monkey Temple
Golden facade of a temple at Swayambhunath Monkey Temple
Giant vajra at the Swayambhunath Monkey Temple
Swayambhunath Monkey Temple complex
Swayambhu Buddha Park; Kathmandu
Entrance to the Kumari Palace, a historical palace where the living goddess Kumari (who is worshipped by Hindus and Buddhists) resides
Krishna Mandir is a 17th-century Shikhara-style temple located at the Patan Durbar Square, a UNESCO World Heritage site in the city of Lalitpur
Carved door at Patan Durbar Square
Patan Durbar Square is one of the three Durbar Squares in the Kathmandu Valley, all of which are UNESCO World Heritage Sites
Krishna Mandir, a 17th century temple at Lalitpur's Patan Durbar Square
Carved archways of Krishna Mandir temple
Wood carving on a temple at Patan Durbar Square
Bhimsen Mandir is a 3 story pagoda dedicated to Bhimsen (the god of trade and business); Patan Durbar Square
Carved ivory handle on display at Patan Museum
Brass dancing Shiva statue at Patan Museum
Amoghasiddhi (Buddha of unfailing success); Patan Museum
Looking out at Patan Durbar Square through a window at Patan Museum
Keshav Narayan Chowk - one of three main Palace courtyards at Patan Durbar Square
Yamuna Statue and Taleju Shrine at Mul Chowk; Patan Durbar Square
Stone statue of a lion guard at the entrance to the Palace at Durbar Square in Patan; Kathmandu Valley
Kailashnath Mahadev Statue is one of the tallest Shiva statues in the world at 143 feet tall
Garden at the base of Kailashnath Mahadev Statue
Pomegranate and banana seller
Namobuddha is a Buddhist pilgrimage site in Nepal that includes a stupa and a monastery
A woman carrying a load of hay
A man stands beside a massive head of Prithvi Narayan Shah, the first King of Nepal
Indrayani Temple at Bhaktapur
Building at the entrance of Bhaktapur Durbar Square
The guard at Bhaktapur Durbar Square
Vatsala Temple at Bhaktapur Durbar Square
The Golden Gate of Bakhtapur
Detail on the Palace of 55 Windows; Bhaktapur Durbar Square
The Chyasalin Mandap pavilion in Bhaktapur Durbar Square (next to the 55 Window Palace)
An old lady walks past Siddhi Lakshmi Temple, which is one of three shikara style temples built in Bhaktapur Durbar Square
A pair of stone lions at Bhaktapur Durbar Square
The temple of Silu Mahadeva is the tallest temple at Bhaktapur Durbar Square. It is a terracotta temple that stands on a pedestal containing sculptures of its guardians (lions, elephants and cows)
View over Bhaktapur Durbar Square from the top of Silu Mahadeva temple
Nyātāpola is a five tiered temple located in the central part of Bhaktapur. It is the tallest monument within the city and the tallest temple in Nepal
View from the top of Nyātāpola Temple
Vegetables for sale at a street side market in Bhaktapur
Prayer flags on a street side temple in Bhaktapur
Interesting mannequins in Bhaktapur
Dattatreya Temple in Bhaktapur
This is a famous and intricately designed wooden sculpture known as the "Peacock Window". It is adjacent to the Dattatreya Temple and is often referred to as the "Mona Lisa" of Nepal
Robby wearing a traditional hat called a "topi" with his new found friends in Bhaktapur
A mannequin showcasing a pretty outfit for sale in Bhaktapur
Years ago, we found Bhaktapur's pottery square mesmerizing. Today, the square has been reduced to a handful of souvenir stalls
Yaksheshwar Mahadev Temple (Pashupatinath Bhaktapur) is a Hindu Temple with intricate wooden carvings at Bhaktapur Durbar Square
A boy on a "linge ping" which is a traditional bamboo swing constructed during the festival of Dashain
Visiting the colorful UNESCO world heritage temple of Changu Narayan. Built in the 4th century AD, it is one of the oldest Hindu temples in Nepal
Changu Narayan Temple is known for its intricate carvings and colorful features
Changu Narayan Temple's roof struts are decorated with carvings of Tantric deities such as this one
View from a hilltop in Changu
Our Nagarkot hotel's guard dog
Locals hitching a ride up to the hilltop settlement of Bandipur
Bandipur is a charming little town in the foothills of Himalayas. This vehicle free town with cobblestone streets has made it a point to preserve its traditional Newari houses
A young girl pets her dog in Bandipur
Bandipur is in the foothills of the Himalayas. Too bad today was overcast and hazy as visitors can often see Mount Everest from here!
A meditating man watches the sun set in Bandipur
The charming town of Bandipur
Two young boys entertain us in Bandipur
Bindyabasini Temple in Bandipur
Cobblestone streets of Bandipur
A woman making sel roti (a traditional Nepalese ring shaped sweet fried dough made from rice flour); Bandipur
Photo of Raj Kumar, our amazing driver
A Nepali woman carrying a basket with her head
A Buddha statue enshrined in a windmill at Pokhara
Carved wooden fence post; Pokhara Lakeside
A turkey struts its stuff at Pokhara Disneyland
Wooden row boats on Phewa Lake in Pokhara
A dog rests by Phewa Lake; Pokhara
No diesel powered boats are allowed on Phewa Lake in Pokhara
A woman buying vegetables from a street side vendor
A motorless, wooden ferris wheel near Phewa Lake in Pokhara
A friendly souvenir vendor
One of Pokhara's friendly locals
The lovely receptionist at Malama Spa
One of our amazing masseuses at Malama Spa in Pokhara
The afternoon Aarti ceremony at Phewa Lake's Rescue Tower
Our friendly waiter at Urban Boutique Hotel in Pokhara
Mermaid on an entrance column to Gupteswar Cave
Spiral staircase leading to Gupteswar Cave
Portrait of a happy woman visiting Gupteswar Cave
Gupteswar Cave is one of Pokhara's major attractions
Ganesha statue at Gupteswar Cave
A vendor gets ready to set up her souvenir stall
Our lovely souvenir seller
View of Phewa Lake from Pumdikot
Becky and her aunt pose in front of Pumdikot Shiva Statue
Detail of Lord Shiva Statue of Pumdikot
Golden cow statue at Pumdikot
A Nepalese girl wearing traditional clothing poses for a photo
Pokhara World Peace Pagoda
An elderly couple smiles after we buy some water from them
Buddha statue at the Pokhara World Peace Pagoda
View of Pokhara from the World Peace Pagoda
Buddhist temple on the shore of Lake Phewa
Colorful wooden boat on Phewa Lake
Our lovely receptionist at the Urban Boutique Hotel in Pokhara
A horse dressed up for tourists at Chitwan National Park
An elephant statue at Chitwan National Park
Traditional folk dance performed by Tharu women at the Cultural House in Chitwan
Northern plains gray langur; Chitwan National Park
A rhinoceros at Chitwan National Park
This hungry rhino was munching on vegetation for well over an hour
A gharial crocodile at the Gharial Crocodile Breeding program; Chitwan National Park
A macaque monkey at Chitwan National Park
A gharial crocodile at the Chitwan breeding center
Sambar deer at Chitwan National Park
Working elephants at Chitwan National Park
A rhino cuts through the forest at Chitwan National Park
Excited tourists greet an elephant rider; Chitwan National Park
A chital deer at Chitwan National Park
A rhino appears at sunset by the riverbank in Chitwan
Sunset over the Rapati River
Suriya was our guide at Chitwan National Park
Rhino statues at a roundabout in Chitwan
Suspension bridge over the Trishuli River
A goat eating by the roadside
A woman boiling chicken in front of her house
Colorful flags hanging over a street in the Thamel District; Kathmandu
One of dozens of souvenir stores in Thamel; Kathmandu
Knock off North Face jackets for sale in Kathmandu
A goodbye dinner courtesy of Mr. Binod, the owner of Transport Hire Nepal (the tour company we booked our trip with)
Mr. Binod met us in the morning to bid us adieu and give us a red scarf for safe travels
The airport in Kathmandu was crowded as we got ready to fly out
All passengers had to go through secondary screening in order to board the plane in Kathmandu
Nitty gritty:
Tour agency: Transport Hire Nepal (Mr. Binod +977 981 8222342) arranged our tour and provided a 14 pax van with our own private driver for the duration of the trip. Best price and Mr. Binod went above and beyond to ensure our happiness from greeting us at the airport with flowers to a free welcome dinner and presenting us with a red scarf upon our departure for good luck.
Hotels: The below hotels were fantastic in every way (price, location, services) and we would be happy to stay with any of them again.
Kathmandu: Daali Hotel & Apartment (the best place to stay in Kathmandu’s Thamel District, this hotel’s staff bends backwards to please. Breakfast buffet is incredible and the rooms are classy and spacious. Such a nice retreat from the hustle and bustle of the city)
Bandipur: Bandipur Kaushi Inn (smack dab in the middle of the pedestrian only zone, this is a quaint hotel that is perfect to explore this hidden gem)
Pokhara: Urban Boutique Hotel Pokhara (excellent location near Pokhara Lakeside) with good views over the lake. Great location within easy walking distance to everything of note.
Chitwan: Hotel National Park (the rooms are basic but you come for the wildlife and this place delivers). They organize all tours/transport/food for a good price. Highly recommend coming during the dry season when the grass has been freshly burned (between Feb to May) as the animals can be easily seen and many of them will gather at watering holes during this time.