Japan – Matsumoto & Takayama & Shirakawa & Kanazawa

The Japanese Alps offer enchanting mountain villages and scenic towns steeped in tradition. This week, we traveled through Matsumoto, Takayama, Shirakawa-go, and Kanazawa—places that felt like stepping into Japan’s living history. Here, ancient traditions and modern life blend seamlessly, with centuries-old customs, architecture, and cultural practices still woven into everyday routines. Matsumoto captivated us with its striking black castle, one of the country’s most beautiful and well-preserved originals. From there, Takayama invited us to slow down along its Edo-period streets, where wooden merchant houses, sake breweries, and morning markets felt frozen in time, all surrounded by crisp mountain air. Our visit to Takayama’s Hida Folk Village was most fortuitous as we got to experience the Takayama Festival. This glimpse into one of Japan’s most celebrated traditions, set against a backdrop of rustic thatched-roof houses and autumn colors, was mesmerizing. Nearby, Shirakawa-go enchanted us with its fairytale-like gassho-zukuri (thatched roof) farmhouses, nestled among rice fields and framed by the dramatic alpine landscape which was especially magical during the fall foliage. Ending in Kanazawa, the mountains gave way to a refined blend of culture and artistry, from the serene Kenrokuen Garden – one of Japan’s most celebrated – to preserved geisha districts and a vibrant food scene centered around fresh seafood.

Our ryokan (traditional Japanese inn) in Matsumoto

Matsumoto Castle at night with a stunning reflection in the surrounding moat

Visiting Matsumoto Castle in the morning before it gets too crowded. It is Japan's oldest wooden castle and is considered a National Treasure

View from the top of Matsumoto Castle

A man dressed in traditional samurai armor standing in front of Matsumoto Castle

A shop housed in a distinct building designed to look like a traditional Japanese castle in Matsumoto

Frog statues located at the entrance of Nawate Street (also known as Frog Street) in Matsumoto

Nawate-dori (popularly known as Frog Street) is a charming pedestrian shopping street in Matsumoto

Yohashira Shrine; Matsumoto

Traditional Japanese casual clothing known as yukata displayed on mannequins

Small Shinto shrine decorated with traditional sacred items

A sign for a Japanese vendor specialized in making traditional taiyaki, a fish-shaped pancake typically filled with sweet red bean paste

These taiyaki cakes are handcrafted individually rather than mass-produced and are super tasty!

Dried preserved fish commonly found in markets

Fresh fruit for sale in downtown Matsumoto

Hands down one of the tastiest/sweetest apples ever!

Street scene in Matsumoto featuring a line of distinctive, bell-shaped streetlights stretching down the road

A traditional Japanese izakaya with various sake bottles displayed in front of the kitchen area; Gusuku Restaurant

Apparently a visit to Matsumoto isn't complete until you have its most famous dish, sanzoku-yaki. This special fried chicken has been marinated in garlic and soy sauce before being coated in potato starch and deep fried...so yummy!

Tatami (woven straw) mats inside a traditional Japanese house

A traditional, white-walled Japanese earthen storehouse (kura) on Matsumoto's main trade avenue from the Edo period into the 20th century

A stone kitsune (fox) statue - a common guardian found at Shinto shrines dedicated to the deity Inari

Japanese traditional wooden buckets, known as oke, used for grave cleaning at cemeteries or temples

Staircase of the Matsumoto Performing Arts Centre

"The Visionary Flowers" (Maboroshi no Hana), a large-scale outdoor sculpture by world-renowned artist Yayoi Kusama; Matsumoto City Museum of Art

A functional art installation featuring Coca-Cola vending machines designed by renowned Japanese artist Yayoi Kusama

Becky standing in front of one of Yayoi Kusama's signature large-scale pumpkin sculptures

A vibrant painting of the Tsutenkaku Tower (located in the Shinsekai district of Osaka)

Robby trying miso ice-cream in front of the Ishii Miso Brewery (which specializes in producing miso using traditional, natural fermentation methods rather than modern factory techniques)

Robby looking into large Japanese cedar barrels that age miso for up to three years, creating a distinct, deep flavor; Ishii Miso Brewery

Love the rules in Japan! Carry your trash and no smoking allowed

Sanmachi Suji historical district in Takayama

The historic district of Sanmachi Suji is famous for its well-preserved traditional merchant houses dating back to the Edo period

A couple dressed in traditional Japanese attire posing in front of the historic Takayama Jinya in Takayama

A sugidama (cedar ball) - a traditional Japanese symbol hung outside sake breweries to indicate that new sake has been produced. Initially green, the ball gradually turns brown, signifying the maturation process of the sake

Takayama City Archives Museum

Japanese collectible roof ornament depicting Daikoku, one of the Seven Lucky Gods

Bronze statue of Yamaoka Tesshū (a famous samurai, statesman, and zen practitioner during the late Edo and early Meiji periods)

The Takayama Jinya is one of the oldest and largest rice granaries (a storehouse for threshed grain). The gravel garden features patterns known as seigaiha (blue ocean waves), created by raking

Rabbit ornament known as a kugikakushi (nailhead concealer) on a beam inside the Takayama Jinya buidling. There are 152 of these rabbit-shaped decorations located throughout the historic government building

Takayama Jinya garden

Interior of the Takayama Jinya, a historical government house in Takayama

We were surprised to be invited to a free Japanese tea ceremony at the Takayama Jinya held by a famous tea ceremony master

A woman performing a traditional Japanese tea ceremony, known as Sadō or Chanoyu. It is a meditative, meticulously choreographed ritual focused on the preparation and sharing of matcha green tea

Getting served "kuriyose" (traditional Japanese sweet) during a traditional Japanese tea ceremony

This Japanese woodblock print, titled "Basket Ferry in Hida Province" was created by Utagawa Hiroshige II around 1860

Takayama Jinya is one of the oldest and largest rice granaries (thick earthen wall storehouses) from the Edo Period (1603 to 1868) still in existence in Japan

A suit of Japanese armor (Yoroi) from the Edo period on display at the Takayama Jinya historical site

Japanese ukiyo-e woodblock print depicting a lively festival scene

A rickshaw puller in the historic Sanmachi Suji district of Takayama

An elderly couple pushing their dog in the historical district of Takayama

Entrance display of the historic Funasaka Sake Brewery

Robby trying some sake at the Funasaka Sake Brewery

Becky standing beside traditional sake barrels at the Harada Sake Brewery

Display inside a traditional Japanese miso shop in Takayama

This traditional Japanese sunken hearth is known as an irori and is commonly found in old farmhouse architecture. The fish counterweight serves as a counterweight to easily adjust the height of the pot or kettle over the fire

Recreated street scene from Japan's Shōwa era (1926-1989) at the Showa-kan Museum

A narrow indoor alleyway designed to look like a street from 1950s or 1960s Japan inside the Takayama Shōwa-kan Museum

Robby inside a vintage Daihatsu Midget MP5 (a classic Japanese three-wheeled mini-truck from the 1960s) displayed inside the Takayama Shōwa-kan Museum

Interior of the Takayama Showa-kan Museum in Takayama, Japan, which recreates the streets and atmosphere of the Shōwa era (specifically the 1950s)

Becky inside a traditional Japanese tobacconist shop (tobacco and general store) from the Showa era

Entrance to Kyōya, a traditional restaurant in Takayama known for its authentic atmosphere and traditional Japanese architecture

Wooden statue of Fudō Myōō (Acala), a prominent guardian deity in Japanese Buddhism

Bonsai display of a miniature tree

Shinto priests at the Sakurayama Hachimangu Shrine in Takayama

Chozuya - a traditional Japanese purification fountain located at the entrance of a Shinto shrine

Sakurayama Hachimangu Shrine stone stairway leading up through a cedar forest

Sakurayama Hachimangu Shrine

Koi fish at Sakurayama Hachimangu Shrine

A traditional Takayama Festival float (yatai) housed inside the Takayama Matsuri Yatai Kaikan (Festival Floats Exhibition Hall)

A karakuri ningyō (mechanized doll) used on traditional Japanese festival floats (dashi). These dolls often depicting characters from legends or Japanese theater

A Japanese lion-headed mask known as a shishigashira, historically used in ceremonial dances and shrine performances

A Japanese diorama depicting a mikoshi (portable shrine) being carried in a festival parade, similar to those featured in the Takayama Festival

A Japanese Tanuki statue is a traditional figurine representing a mythical Japanese raccoon dog known for its mischievous nature and ability to shapeshift

Wooden sculpture of Daikoku (one of the Seven Lucky Gods in Japanese mythology) located in the Miyagawa Morning Market in Takayama

Japanese noren curtain featuring a design of a traditional thatched-roof house in Shirakawa-go

Hida beef sushi wrap at Hida Appo restaurant

Becky on the Kajibashi Bridge next to statue named Tenagazuch (a character from Japanese folklore known for having exceptionally long arms)

Excellent Chinese food at Restaurant Shouman; Takayama

Striking a pose at Hida Folk Village

Hida Folk Village is a beautiful open air museum that looks spectacular in the fall

Becky at Hida Folk Village

There are over 30 traditional farmhouses and buildings from the mountainous Hida region which showcase architectural styles dating from 100 to 500 years ago at the Hida Folk Village

A collection of antique Japanese wooden buckets historically used for carrying water, storing rice and other daily chores

A small, thatched-roof hut at Hida Folk Village

Historic farmhouses featuring steeply pitched, thatched roofs known as gassho-zukuri style which are designed to withstand heavy snowfall

View of an Iroria, which is a traditional Japanese sunken hearth used for heating and cooking

A thatched-roof barn at Hida Folk Village

Visitors can explore the interior of the houses at Hida Folk Village to see historical artifacts like cooking utensils and weaving tools

A man on a walking path at Hida Folk Village

A traditional Japanese house showcasing shoji screens (paper doors) and wooden flooring as well as an irori (sunken hearth used for cooking and heating)

A log staircase within a Gassho-zukuri style building at Hida Folk Village

A traditional wooden water wheel at Hida Folk Village

View of a traditional Japanese hearth kettle hook known as a jizai kagi. It is often carved into the shape of a carp, symbolizing perseverance and prosperity

Hida Folk Village serves as a living museum, showcasing artifacts still used in rural life today

A traditional Japanese wood carving of Ebisu, one of the Seven Lucky Gods (Shichifukujin). Ebisu is the patron deity of fishermen and merchants and is commonly depicted holding a fishing rod and a large sea bream fish

Hida Folk Village is set in a picturesque wooded area, offering a view into rural life during the Edo period

Traditional farmhouse on display at Hida Folk Village

Hida Folk Village recreates a mountain village from the Japanese Alps prior to modernization and we enjoyed spending a few hours here

A young boy and girl in traditional kimono garments waiting to perform at Hida Folk Village

Watching a traditional Shishi-mai (Lion Dance) performance at the Takayama Festival which is held twice a year in spring and fall. Performers wear elaborate, heavy lion masks and green patterned costumes while dancing to the sound of taiko drums and flutes to bring good fortune

Boys dressed in traditional attire for the Takayama Festival

One of 30 traditional houses found at the Hida Folk Village

A father helps his son get ready to perform in the biannual Takayama Festival

A young girl poses for a photo as she waits to perform in the Takayama Festival at Hida Folk Village

The Nagara River flowing near Shirakawa Village

A traditional Gassho-zukuri farmhouse in the historic village of Shirakawa-go

View of the UNESCO world heritage village of Shirakawa-go

Shirakawa-go is famous for its unique architecture with over 100 traditional "gassho-zukuri" style farmhouses

Gassho-zukuri ("praying hands" construction) are traditional Japanese farmhouses with steep, thatched roofs designed to shed heavy snow

Shirakawa-go Village is a living, functional village with about 500 residents who still call this area their home

Shirakawa-go is not just a museum, but a living village where residents continue to live in these traditional homes, some of which function as shops, museums, or guest houses

All of the traditional buildings in Shirakawa-go are built entirely without nails, utilizing interlocking timber techniques

Some of the houses in Shirakawa-go are over 250 years old!

Every tourist that visits Shirakawa-go wants to take a photo of the iconic three Gassho-style farmhouses

Tucked away inside Shirakawa-go Village is the open-air Gasshozukuri Minkaen Outdoor Museum, which consists of 25 structures

One of the 25 structures you can visit at the open-air Gasshozukuri Minkaen Outdoor Museum

Mexican bush sage in front of a traditional house in Shirakawa-go

Concrete statue of a dog (representing loyalty and protection) outside a traditional house in Shirakawa-go

Scenic view of the Shō River in Shirakawa-go Village

We visited Shirakawa-go on a dreary and rainy day. Luckily, we managed to see all the traditional farmhouses before the heavy clouds moved in

We visited shortly after a Spanish tourist was attacked by a bear in Shirakawa-go so there were lots of "beware of bear" signs everywhere

Heavy clouds over Shirakawa-go after 12 hours of rain

Fountain clock at the East exit of Kanazawa Station

The iconic Tsuzumi-mon Gate (Drum Gate) at the entrance of Kanazawa Station

Having dinner at Stray Sheep Home, a tiny restaurant serving home cooked meals that seats only 7 people!

The Nagamachi Samurai District in Kanazawa is a well-preserved neighborhood formerly inhabited by high and middle-ranking samurai

Japanese paper lanterns inside the Oyama-jinja shrine

Frog detail at the Oyama-jinja shrine in Kanazawa

Picturesque garden of the Oyama-jinja shrine in Kanazawa

Sculpture of a tengu (legendary Japanese mountain spirit) carrying a child on its back at Oyama shrine

Nezumitamon Gate and Bridge at Kanazawa Castle Park

Gyokusen'inmaru Garden located within the grounds of Kanazawa Castle

Kanazawa Castle on a misty day

The "knotted legs" statue in Kanazawa

When tradition meets modernity - a geisha getting drinks from a vending machine

The moody atmosphere of a Japanese temple during a rain shower

Elephant detail of the historic Myōryū-ji temple (popularly known as the Ninja Temple) located in Kanazawa

Unfortunately, interior photos of the Ninja Temple (Myōryū-ji) are not allowed but exterior pictures are fine

A small shrine on the grounds of the Myōryū-ji temple complex

The Saigawa Bridge (also known as Saigawa Ohashi) - a historic steel truss bridge spanning the Sai River in Kanazawa

Posing in front of "Maru" (which means "circle" in Japanese), a prominent landmark at the 21st Century Museum of Contemporary Art in Kanazawa

Leandro Erlich's "The Swimming Pool" is an interactive work on display at the 21st Century Museum of Contemporary Art in Kanazawa

A path lined with red torii gates at Ishiura Shrine in Kanazawa

The main hall of Ishiura Shrine. This shrine is recognized as the oldest Shinto shrine in Kanazawa

Walking path in Kenroku-en Park

A traditional Japanese stone lantern (known as a tōrō) at Kenroku-en Park

A beautiful woman wearing a traditional blue and white yukata (a casual summer cotton kimono) at Kenroku-en Park

A massive traditional stone lantern in Kenroku-en Park

The bronze statue of Prince Yamato Takeru, which is part of the Meiji Monument located within Kenroku-en Garden

Japanese red pine supported by wooden beams at the Kenroku-en Garden

View of Kanazawa from Kenroku-en Garden

Kenroku-en Garden is considered one of the three great gardens of Japan

The stunning Kenroku-en Garden in Kanazawa

This Kenroku-en fountain dates back to the mid-1800s and is considered Japan's oldest fountain. It uses natural water pressure created by the difference in elevation from the nearby Kasumigaike Pond

Visitors wearing traditional kimonos for a photo session at Kenroku-en Park

Tsutsumitei restaurant located just outside the Katsurazaka Gate of Kenrokuen Garden. This restaurant is housed in a quaint wooden building constructed over 110 years ago

An ice-cream vending machine! The ice-cream was surprisingly tasty

Kimono clad visitors taking photos at Kanazawa Castle

Free tours of Kanazawa Castle are offered daily by volunteers who speak excellent English!

Kanazawa Castle is a large, partially restored castle that has been burned and rebuilt multiple times over the centuries

Omicho Market is a vibrant market known as the "kitchen of Kanazawa" with a 300-year history. It is famous for fresh seafood, local produce, and street food

A man making Takoyaki - a popular Japanese street food consisting of ball-shaped dumplings filled with octopus at Omicho Market

Seafood stall at Omicho Market, Kanazawa's largest fresh food market

Fresh fruit and vegetables for sale at Omicho Market

Omicho Market is a great place to try fresh sushi at a reasonable price. There are over 100 shops and restaurants serving seafood bowls and sushi

View of an 18th century Chinese carved wood corbel (designed to support a roof beam) at Nomura Samurai House

The inner garden of the Nomura-ke Samurai Residence, located in the historic Nagamachi Samurai District of Kanazawa

Interior of the Nomura Samurai House. This residence belonged to the Nomura family - a high-ranking samurai clan that served the Maeda family for generations

A "tosei-gusoku" style Japanese samurai armor

A narrow street in the Nagamachi Samurai District; Kanazawa

Welcome flowers at Kanazawa Castle Park

The Hishi Yagura (Diamond Turret) of Kanazawa Castle surrounded by a moat

View of the Hashizume-mon Gate and the surrounding moat as seen from a window at the Kanazawa Castle

The Ishikawa Gate (Ishikawa-mon) of Kanazawa Castle

Robby enjoying a sushi lunch at Omicho Market

Kazuemachi Chaya is one of Kanazawa's three historic teahouse districts known for its traditional wooden houses

A traditional wooden building in the historic Higashi Chaya district of Kanazawa. It is famous for its preserved Edo-period teahouses where geisha entertained guests